Day 1
Bishkek to Son-Kol
Pickup at 06:00 and out of the city by half past, south through the Boom gorge with a stop at the Kalmak-Ashuu pass. We reach the yurt camp on the shore around midday and eat at half one; the afternoon is yours. Dinner comes with a fire and the evening games the camp is known for.
Day 2
Son-Kol to Kel-Suu
Breakfast at seven and away by eight, over the pass locals call 33 Parrots and down to Naryn for lunch. Passports come out at the border-zone checkpoint in the afternoon, because this is a restricted area, and we reach camp around half six with dinner an hour later.
Day 3
Kel-Suu
The day the route is built around. Eight kilometres on foot from camp, reaching the lake between eleven and half past, with the rest of the morning and the afternoon on the shore — there is a boat if you want it. We start back at four, and if the sky stays clear there is a fire after dinner.
Day 4
Kel-Suu to Issyk-Kul
Out of the mountains the way we came in: water canyons at ten, the border checkpoint at half eleven, lunch in Naryn. The afternoon is the long drive north, and by half six you are checking into a guesthouse on the southern shore of Issyk-Kul with the lake in front of you.
Day 5
Issyk-Kul to Altyn-Arashan
A day of stops rather than a drive: the Fairytale canyons in the morning, both Barskoon waterfalls before lunch, and the Jeti-Oguz gorge at half three. We reach Karakol at half five and change into ex-military trucks for the track up to Altyn-Arashan, arriving at the guesthouse around half seven.
Day 6
Ala-Kul
An early breakfast and then twelve kilometres on horseback towards Ala-Kul. The horses stop where the ground steepens and the last kilometre is on foot, up a forty to forty-five degree slope. Time at the lake, then the same way back down to camp for dinner. This is the hardest day of the week.
Day 7
Cholpon-Ata and back to Bishkek
Breakfast at eight, an unhurried morning, and back down to Karakol for lunch at noon. A last stop on Issyk-Kul in the afternoon — the final swim of the trip — before the drive west at seven. Bishkek around eleven at night, and the tour ends there.